Dungeons and Dragons Things

In addition to the dungeons tiles I got together the other week, I also painted some Bones miniatures from Reaper and made some dungeon props. For the most part I have not been particularly flattering towards Reaper’s Bones range, and I somewhat maintain that position. I will say, however, that the simpler miniatures are (in my opinion) better and much more suited to the polymer medium that Reaper are using for the range than the more complicated or fancy miniatures. This is especially the case for someone like me who uses more basic techniques and goes for a more straight forward look. As for the dungeon props, I drew much inspiration and ideas from DMG and DM Scotty and all turned out very nice. So, without further delay.

Crates and Ladder

The first things I made were these three crates and ladder. I used them in my first session with my second group who were attacking goblins holed up in a barn. To make the creates I modified the method showcased by DMG, which you can find here (opens new tab). What I did not like about his method was how fiddly it was. Instead of gluing the cardboard panels on the inside of the matchstick frame one by one, I first made some 20mm cardboard cubes. I then glued the matchsticks on around the cube. It was not perfect, and there are gaps where the matchsticks that are glued on later in the process don’t quite sit flush with parts of the box (because they’re aligned with the matchsticks that are glued earlier in the frame making process). I think the effect still works well though and you could avoid gaps by being a little more careful and precise without adding too much time to the construction. Painting was a breeze: Raw Umber and then Mud Puddle dry brush. Easy stuff.


I made six wooden doors and a stone door. Of the props I made, these are my favourite and I am particularly pleased with the wooden doors. They are made from balsa wood sticks cut down to 40mm lengths. After three sticks are glued together to form the door I made some door handles out of copper wire. To do this I wound the copper wire (.7mm I think it is, I use it for pinning my Infinity models when pinning is required) around a paint brush. I then used wire cutters to take a single circle worth off the resulting spring one cut at a time. To afix the handle to the door I used some green stuff modelling putty and then pressed the top part of the handle in and smoothed it down a bit to look like the handle looped thrown a metal holder. There are handles on both sides of the door. Once the handles were affixed I glued the door to a 25mm base. The stone door is just a piece of cardboard with cardstock around it to make it look like a single solid piece. I used cardstock for the bracing on the doors.

Painting again was easy. The wood is Raw Umber then Mud Puddle, the bracing and handle backing is Black and the handle itself is Brassy Brass (I think). The stone door has Terracotta bracing. The stone door and bases are Shadow Grey dry brushed with Stonewall Grey. The bases then have black lines hand painted in to mimic stone flooring.


Next we have some beds and tables. It’s all simple stuff constructed from balsa wood and matchsticks. Not much to say here, they’re painted up the same as everything else wooden.

Bones Miniatures

Here we have a wolf and a badger. I miss animal companions in 5th 😦



Next we have some goblins. These are an example of simple models that look great. Exactly the sort of thing the Bones range should be focused on. Their hoods and leather armour are Charred Brown, skin is Desert Yellow, metal parts are Gunmetal Grey, Brown Leather and Beasty Brown are also used on wooden and leather parts variously.

And here are some female heroes. They are ok, but they aren’t my favourite models. The only hero model I’ve painted up in the Bones range that I have really liked was gay pride mage. He turned out fantastic. Why? He was a simpler model.

And here are the best examples of why simple models in the Bones range are fantastic. Sorry the images aren’t better but I can assure you these models look great. They are straight forward, basic, but they look superb. Aprons are Bonewhite, the woman has a Charred Brown dress and Stonewall Grey shirt. The innkeeper has Shadowgrey pants and a German Camo Beige shirt. These are my favourite Bones minis that I have painted, excepting gay pride mage.

The Post That Would Have Been Done on Friday if I Didn’t Work Late

So as the title of this post makes clear, I would have posted this Friday, but I worked late. The yesterday I was capital B Busy. But today, today I can share the Infinity models I have painted since April. This post is pretty pictures heavy and I’m in a bit of a rush here because my sister and co should be around for D&D very shortly.


Paracommando with HMG. Standard colour scheme (Stonewall Grey base, German Grey “S” shapes, Dead White patches and black splinters. Packs/bags are in German Camo Beige. Guns are in black with Beige Brown wooden parts).

And Paracommando with rifle. She shot something once. I don’t think it died. It was a sad day.


He has a boarding shotgun. He walks on from the side of the board and shoots things. That’s what he does. I’m used him a few times – not with any great success. Regular colour scheme, nothing special to report on here.

Traktor MULs



Above we have the Katyusha (or what I am going to call the Katyusha, I don’t actually know which is which). I originally tried the regular splinter camo pattern I do on my models. It didn’t work, however, so I went with splotches instead. The base is Stonewall Grey. On that I have large patches of German Grey, finishing with small patches of Dead White. The baggage at the back is just German Camo Beige with Brown Beige straps. Tracks are German Camo Grey dryburshed with Gunmetal Grey.

And then we also have the Uragen. I have actually used both models prior to painting. I like them both, however I think the Uragen is probably more worth it. If you are playing Supremacy or any of the game modes where the Baggage special rule is in play, the Traktor MULs are a great pick. That +20 points per model they count for when determining area control will win you games.